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How to build a simple fold-down work table | @DadAdviceFromBo

Here are my plans for the fold down work table I built for my son's garage.

Folding Table instructions (80” length)

 Supplies

1ea 4x8x ½” sheet of plywood.
8ea 2x4’s x 8’
1ea 4x4 x8’
1 box 2 ½” construction screws
1 box of 1 ¼” construction screws
I box of ½” wood screws
7ea 3 ½” door hinges
Option: 1 Gal black paint
Option: 2ea ½” x 8” bolts

 Cut list for 2x4’s
Cut 2ea at 80”
Cut 2ea at 73”
Cut 2ea at 46”
Cut 5ea at 44 ½”
Cut 2ea at 38”

 Cut List for 4x4’s
Cut 2ea at 38”

 Step 1

Cut your plywood down to 80” in length (48” x 80”)

 Step 2

Cut all your 2x4’s and 4 x 4’s to length as listed above

Step 3

Mark lines on your plywood that are 2” in from the edges on three sides only

Step 4

Assemble the two 73” and two 46” pieces to form a rectangle with the longer pieces inside the shorter pieces. When you’re finished, your rectangle should measure 76” x 46”.

Step 5

Lay your 4x4’s along the 46” ends (on the inside) and use them as a pattern to position and screw down two of the 44 ½” braces parallel to the 4x4 (one on each end).

Step 6

Make a mark in the center of your frame (should be 40”) and screw in one 44 ½” brace directly in the center of your frame.

Step 7

Measure 16” out on both sides of your center brace and add two more 44 ½” braces (one of each side of the center brace).

Step 8

Position your frame so it’s flush with the plywood on one long side and 2” in from the plywood edges on the other three sides. Then, run a couple screws through the plywood (from the bottom up) and into the frame. Just enough to hold the plywood to the frame in place so you can flip the assembly over.

Step 9

With the plywood side now up, screw the plywood to the frame down the long edges and across all the braces.

Step 10

Flip the assemble back over (frame up) and set the two 4x4 legs in position towards the side with the 2” lip. Position your 3 ½” hinges with one flap against the 4x4 and the other on the plywood then screw them down (note: use short screws when attaching the hinge to the plywood).

OPTION: Drill a 5/8” hole through the outside of each 2x4 and through the 4x4 and through the inside 2x4 to hole for a ½” x 8” bolt that can be inserted once the legs are extended. This will prevent the table leg from collapsing if you accidentally kick it while you’re working.

OPTION: If you’d like to paint your base, this is the time to do it. Be sure to paint the two 80” 2x4’s you still have sitting off to the side!

Step 11

Temporally attach the two additional 38” (2x4) legs to the opposite side of your table directly across from the permanent 4x4 legs. Get help to flip the table over so it’s now sitting on all 4 legs. Move the table into position against your desired wall. Draw a line on the wall using the top of the plywood as your guide. Move the table away from the wall.

Step 12

Using the line on the wall as your guide, locate the studs in the wall and mark where they are down the entire length of your line. Then, fasten the two 80” 2x4’s to the wall and securing it to the studs inside the wall and holding the top edge of the 2x4 flush with the line on the wall. Screw down one 2x4 to the wall then, add the second 2x4 on top of the first.

Step 13

Move the table back against the wall and flush with the two 2x4’s you just attached to the wall. Attach five (or more) hinges, equal distance apart, to connect the table top to the 2x4’s that are attached to the wall.

Step 14

The table will now fold up against the wall but will not stay up without something holding it in place. I used the same bolts holding the legs in place when folded down to pin it in place while in the up position. I’m sure there are many more options available….be creative!